Caravan Tyre Safety: Pressures, Blowouts, Load Ratings, and When to Replace

Here's a stat that should make every caravanner uncomfortable: a significant number of caravan blowouts happen on tyres with plenty of tread left. The tyres look fine. They pass a visual inspection. They've done relatively few kilometres. And then, somewhere on the Barrier Highway at 100 km/h with a fully loaded van, the sidewall lets go and you're fighting to keep the whole rig on the road.

Caravan tyres are fundamentally different from car tyres in terms of how they age and fail, but most owners treat them the same way. They check the tread depth, see it looks fine, and assume the tyres are good for another few years. This guide explains why that thinking is dangerous, what you should actually be checking, and how to get your tyre pressures right for the load you're carrying — not just the number stamped on the sidewall.

Why Caravan Tyres Are Different

Your car tyres wear out from driving. You put 40,000 or 50,000 kilometres on them over three or four years, the tread wears down, and you replace them. The age of the tyre is rarely the issue because the tread gives out first.

Caravan tyres live a completely different life. A typical touring caravan might do 5,000 to 15,000 kilometres per year. Some do far less. The tyres barely wear at all in terms of tread. A caravan tyre might have 80 percent of its original tread depth after five years of use.

But while the tread isn't wearing, the rubber is degrading. UV exposure, heat cycles, ozone, and simple time break down the chemical compounds in the rubber. The tyre gets harder and more brittle. Tiny cracks form in the sidewall — sometimes visible, sometimes not. The bond between the tread and the carcass weakens. And one hot afternoon, under load, at speed, the tyre fails catastrophically.

This is why tread depth is a poor indicator of caravan tyre health. A caravan tyre with 6mm of tread and six years of age is more dangerous than a car tyre with 3mm of tread and two years of age.

The Five-Year Rule

The industry consensus — backed by tyre manufacturers including Bridgestone, Michelin, and Continental — is that tyres should be replaced after five years of service, regardless of remaining tread depth. Some manufacturers extend this to six years, but five is the conservative and widely recommended benchmark for caravan use.

Why five years specifically? After this point, the rubber compound has degraded enough that the tyre's ability to handle heat, flex, and load is significantly compromised. The risk of a sudden failure increases substantially, and no amount of visual inspection can reliably detect internal degradation.

For caravan tyres that sit in storage for long periods, exposed to sun and temperature extremes, degradation can be accelerated. If your caravan sits in an open yard for nine months of the year, those tyres are ageing faster than tyres on a van that's stored in a shed.

The bottom line: replace caravan tyres at five years old, even if they look perfect. It's the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.

How to Read the DOT Date Code

Every tyre manufactured since 2000 has a DOT (Department of Transportation) date code stamped on the sidewall. It tells you exactly when the tyre was made.

Look on the sidewall for the letters "DOT" followed by a series of characters. The last four digits are the date code. The first two digits are the week of manufacture, and the last two are the year.

For example: DOT XXXX XXXX 2319 means the tyre was made in week 23 of 2019 — that's early June 2019.

If you see only three digits at the end, the tyre was made before 2000, which means it's over 25 years old and should have been replaced long ago.

Check all your tyres, including the spare. It's common for spare tyres to be older than the ones on the axle, especially if the original tyres were replaced but the spare wasn't. A spare tyre that's eight years old is not a spare you want to rely on in an emergency.

Pro tip: the DOT code is sometimes only on one side of the tyre. If you can't find it on the outside, it's on the inner sidewall. You might need to slide under the van with a torch.

Load Ratings Explained

Every tyre has a load rating stamped on the sidewall, and understanding this number is critical for caravan safety. It's not just a technical detail — getting it wrong can lead to tyre failure under load.

The load rating is shown as a number, usually between 90 and 120 for caravan tyres. Each number corresponds to a maximum weight that tyre can carry at its maximum rated pressure. For example:

• Load Index 100 = 800 kg per tyre
• Load Index 104 = 900 kg per tyre
• Load Index 108 = 1,000 kg per tyre

You can find the full load index table on any tyre manufacturer's website. The key calculation is simple:

Single axle caravan: Each tyre must be rated to carry at least half the caravan's maximum loaded weight (ATM divided by 2).

Tandem axle caravan: Each tyre must carry at least a quarter of the ATM (ATM divided by 4). In practice, you should allow a margin because load distribution across four tyres is never perfectly even.

Many caravans come from the factory with tyres that are only marginally adequate for the ATM. If you're loading your van close to its maximum weight — which most people do — you're running those tyres very close to their limit. Upgrading to a higher load-rated tyre is a relatively cheap modification that provides a meaningful safety margin.

Calculating Correct Tyre Pressure for Your Load

This is where most caravanners get it wrong. The maximum pressure stamped on the sidewall is the pressure required to carry the tyre's maximum rated load. If your caravan weighs less than that maximum load, the correct pressure is lower.

Running at maximum sidewall pressure when your load doesn't require it results in over-inflation, which causes its own set of problems (more on that below). Running at too low a pressure for your load causes under-inflation, which is even more dangerous.

The correct approach is to match your tyre pressure to your actual load. Here's the process:

1. Weigh your caravan loaded. Use a public weighbridge to get the total weight and, ideally, individual axle weights. This needs to be done with the van loaded as you'll actually tow it — full water tanks, full gas, gear packed, everything.

1. Calculate the weight per tyre. Divide the axle weight by the number of tyres on that axle.

1. Use the tyre manufacturer's load-pressure chart. Every tyre manufacturer publishes charts showing the correct inflation pressure for a given load at each load index. These charts are available on their websites. Find your tyre's load index, find the weight per tyre, and read off the correct pressure.

1. Add a small margin. It's sensible to add 2 to 4 PSI above the chart recommendation as a safety buffer. You're accounting for measurement tolerances, load shifts, and pressure loss over time.

This process gives you a pressure that's optimised for your actual load — not a guess based on the sidewall maximum or a number someone mentioned in a Facebook group.

The Dangers of Under-Inflation

Under-inflated tyres are the number one cause of caravan tyre blowouts. When a tyre doesn't have enough air pressure to support the load it's carrying, the sidewall flexes excessively with every rotation. This flexing generates heat — a lot of heat.

The heat builds up over distance and speed. The internal temperature of an under-inflated tyre under heavy load can exceed 100 degrees Celsius. At these temperatures, the rubber compounds break down, the internal structure weakens, and the tyre fails. The failure mode is typically a sudden sidewall blowout, which is violent and difficult to control.

Under-inflation also causes:

• Increased rolling resistance, which means higher fuel consumption and more heat generation.
• Poor handling, with the caravan feeling vague and wallowy.
• Uneven wear, with the edges of the tread wearing faster than the centre.
• Increased risk of the tyre coming off the rim if pressure drops low enough during a corner or lane change.

The insidious thing about under-inflation is that you often can't see it. A tyre can be 10 or 15 PSI below its correct pressure and still look normal to the naked eye, especially on a caravan where you're not looking at the tyres from the driver's seat. This is why checking pressures with a gauge — not your eyes — is essential.

The Dangers of Over-Inflation

While under-inflation gets most of the attention, over-inflation creates its own risks. Running maximum sidewall pressure when your load only requires 80 percent of that creates a harsh, bouncy ride that puts additional stress on the caravan's chassis, suspension, and everything inside.

Over-inflated tyres have a smaller contact patch with the road, which means:

• Reduced grip, especially in wet conditions or on gravel.
• Centre tread wear, reducing tyre life and creating an uneven wear pattern.
• Harsher ride, with more vibration transmitted through the caravan.
• Increased susceptibility to impact damage — a pothole or sharp object is more likely to cause damage to an over-inflated tyre because the rubber has less give.

The correct pressure is a balance: enough to support the load without excessive sidewall flex, but not so much that the tyre becomes a rigid, bouncing liability.

Single Axle vs Tandem Axle Considerations

Single axle caravans and tandem axle caravans have different tyre management needs, and the differences matter.

Single axle vans put all the load on two tyres. This means each tyre carries more weight relative to its capacity, and there's zero redundancy — if one tyre fails, you're immediately relying on one tyre to support the entire axle load. This is why correct pressures and tyre condition are especially critical on single axle vans. A blowout on a single axle van is a more serious event than on a tandem, because the rim will likely hit the road immediately.

Tandem axle vans spread the load across four tyres, which provides a safety margin if one tyre fails. However, tandem setups introduce a different problem: if one tyre is under-inflated, the adjacent tyre on the same side takes more load. This can create a cascading failure where one dodgy tyre overloads its neighbour, and you end up with two blowouts instead of one.

Tandem axle tyres also wear differently depending on their position. The rear tyres on a tandem axle often wear faster due to scrubbing during turns. Rotate your tandem axle tyres regularly — front to back on the same side — to even out wear.

Tyre Pressure Monitoring Systems

A TPMS is one of the best investments you can make for towing safety. These systems use sensors on each tyre (usually valve-cap style or internal sensors) that transmit real-time pressure and temperature data to a display in the cab.

A good TPMS will alert you to:

• Slow leaks before they become dangerous. A nail in a tyre might cause a slow drop of 1 to 2 PSI per hour. Without a TPMS, you won't notice until it's critically low. With a TPMS, you get an alarm within minutes.
• Rapid pressure loss from a puncture or blowout. Early warning gives you precious seconds to react.
• Overheating tyres that might be on the verge of failure. A tyre running 20 degrees hotter than its neighbours is telling you something is wrong.

TPMS units designed for towing cover both the vehicle and caravan tyres — typically six to eight sensors. Quality systems from brands like Tyredog, Tyre Patrol, or TPMS4U cost between $250 and $500. For a safety device that monitors arguably the most failure-prone component on your rig, it's money well spent.

What to Do During a Blowout

If a caravan tyre blows while you're towing, your instinctive reaction will be wrong. Here's what happens and what to do:

What you'll feel: A loud bang, followed by the caravan pulling or swaying to one side. The steering wheel may jerk. You'll hear the sound of rubber flapping or the rim contacting the road.

What NOT to do: Do not slam on the brakes. This is the critical mistake that turns a manageable blowout into a rollover. Hard braking with a swaying caravan amplifies the sway and can jackknife the rig.

What TO do:

1. Keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Don't try to correct the pull — just hold the wheel steady and keep the vehicle pointed straight.
2. Gently accelerate slightly. This sounds counterintuitive, but a brief, gentle acceleration straightens the rig and reduces sway. You're not accelerating to speed up — you're using the power to stabilise.
3. Gradually reduce speed. Once the rig is stable, slowly ease off the accelerator. Let the rig slow naturally. Apply brakes very gently only once you're at a low speed.
4. Pull over safely. Indicate, move to the left, and stop well off the road on a flat, firm surface.

Practise this response mentally before you need it. When a blowout happens, you have about two seconds to make the right decision. If you've rehearsed it in your mind, your hands will do the right thing.

The Spare Tyre Question

Every caravan should carry a spare tyre that matches the specifications of the tyres on the axle. "Close enough" is not good enough — a spare with a different load rating, speed rating, or size can create handling problems and put additional stress on the remaining original tyre.

Where to mount it: Rear-mounted spares on a bumper bar are common but add weight behind the axle, which affects noseweight. Under-slung carriers are better for weight distribution. Wherever you mount it, make sure it's secure and the mounting hardware is in good condition.

Check the spare's pressure every time you check your axle tyres. A flat spare is useless. It's also worth noting that if your spare has been sitting in the sun for five years without being used, it's subject to the same age-related degradation as any other tyre.

Carry the tools to change it. A jack rated for your caravan's weight, a wheel brace that fits your wheel nuts, wheel chocks, and a torque wrench. Test that you can actually loosen the wheel nuts and operate the jack before you need to do it on the side of a highway in 38-degree heat.

Budget Tyres vs Brand Names

This is a topic that generates heated debate in caravan forums. The question is simple: are cheap tyres from lesser-known manufacturers safe for caravan use?

The honest answer is that quality varies enormously. Budget tyres from reputable mid-range brands can be perfectly adequate for caravan use. They meet Australian Design Rules and carry the correct load and speed ratings.

However, premium brands like Bridgestone, Michelin, Continental, and Goodyear generally offer better rubber compounds that resist heat and ageing, more consistent manufacturing quality, and better performance at the limits. For a component that sits between your family and the road at highway speed, the price difference — often $50 to $100 per tyre — is hard to argue against.

If you do choose budget tyres, stick with brands that have an established presence in the Australian market and avoid no-name imports with no local distributor. If something goes wrong, you want warranty support and replacement availability.

Storage and Seasonal Maintenance

How you store your caravan between trips significantly affects tyre life.

UV protection is the single most effective thing you can do. UV radiation is the primary cause of rubber degradation. If your van sits outside, fit tyre covers. They cost almost nothing and can add years to your tyre life.

Move the van periodically if it's in long-term storage. Sitting in one position for months creates flat spots where the tyre contacts the ground. These flat spots can become permanent in older tyres. Rolling the van forward or back by half a wheel rotation every few weeks prevents this.

Inflate to the maximum sidewall pressure during storage. This reduces sidewall flex from the static load and helps maintain the tyre's shape. Reduce to your normal towing pressure before you hit the road.

Inspect tyres at the start of every season. Look for cracking in the sidewall, bulging, uneven wear, and any objects embedded in the tread. Run your hand around the tread and feel for lumps or irregularities. Check the DOT codes and confirm the age.

KamperHub's weight dashboard includes a tyre pressure calculator that factors in your actual caravan weight to recommend the correct pressure for your specific load — taking the guesswork out of one of the most important safety variables on your rig.

Making It a Habit

Tyre safety isn't glamorous. It's not as exciting as planning your next Big Lap route or choosing a new solar setup. But tyres are the only thing connecting your rig to the road, and they're carrying several tonnes at highway speed. Give them the attention they deserve: check pressures before every trip, inspect condition regularly, replace at five years, and invest in a TPMS. Your tyres will thank you by not exploding on the Nullarbor.

Track Your Tyre Loads

KamperHub's weight compliance dashboard shows load-adjusted tyre pressures based on your actual weights — not just the placard values. Learn more about safe loading in our caravan weight distribution guide.

Related Guides

• Caravan Weight Compliance Explained: A Beginner's Guide
• The Ultimate Caravan Pre-Departure Checklist
• Caravan Electric Brake Wiring: Diagnose and Fix Common Problems
• First Time Towing a Caravan on Your Own? A Practical Guide

Useful Resources

• Caravan Industry Association of Australia (CIAA)
• State Road Authority — Towing Regulations
• RACQ — Towing a Caravan Safely

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KamperHub Team

Helping travellers tow safely and confidently. KamperHub provides tools for trip planning, weight compliance, and adventure management.